Stretch fabrics have become an indispensable part of modern wardrobes, with spandex and other petroleum-based fibers providing the flexibility needed for activewear, socks, and countless other garments. However, this convenience comes at a cost: these materials shed microplastics and resist decomposition, contributing to long-term environmental damage. Recognizing this issue, Alexis Peña and Lauren Blake, co-founders of the startup Good Fibes, are pioneering a sustainable alternative. Using silk elastin-like proteins (SELPs), engineered through recombinant DNA, they are developing biodegradable stretch textiles that mimic the elasticity of synthetic fibers without the environmental footprint. Operating out of Tufts University and Argonne National Laboratory, the duo aims to revolutionize the textile industry by replacing petroleum-based elastics with lab-grown proteins that can be tailored for strength, dye affinity, and durability.
The challenge, however, lies in scaling production. Good Fibes’ microbial approach, which transforms E. coli-derived proteins into gel-like materials for fiber creation, demands significant raw material input. While other biomaterials startups, such as Japan’s Spiber, have successfully commercialized protein-based textiles for outerwear, Good Fibes seeks to do the same for stretch fabrics. With a recent $200,000 grant from the US Department of Energy, Peña and Blake have invested in 3D bioprinting technology to accelerate their nonwoven textile development, potentially creating a new category of flexible, biodegradable materials. If they succeed, they could provide a much-needed alternative to conventional elastics, opening the door for sustainable activewear and beyond. Major apparel brands are already paying attention, eager to test their innovative fabrics as soon as they become commercially viable.